Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. It is appreciated by amateur flower growers and designers for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite being undemanding and not capricious, dracaena suffers from unintentional care errors, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects its presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.
Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing difficult in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But you should still listen to the requirements of the plant, trying to create an environment for her that is as close as possible to that to which she is accustomed in nature.
Dracaena is a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) indoor plant
Choose a place near the window for the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill due to its size
In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is exerted by timely fertilizing and the correct irrigation regime.
In summer, let the soil in the pot dry out about 4–5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick into the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, the intervals are increased to 5–7 days. Rot develops quickly in wet soil when kept cool. Broadleaf dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. A clear signal is drooping leaves that have lost their tone. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.
The material on the conditions of detention of Dracaena Sander will also be useful: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/bambuk-komnatnoe-rastenie-uhod.html
As for dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, moistening the soil well in about half an hour. If you are using a generic indoor plant product, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to a deterioration in the appearance of the leaves. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluorine.
Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, these kinds of plant problems are the result of unintentional mistakes by the owner. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to her death, but it will give a florist a lot of trouble.
The most dangerous for her are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant must be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it may be. Otherwise, you can lose the entire collection.
Most often, in order to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:
The plant gives unambiguous signals to the grower. Deterioration in its appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs and know what to do in each case.
Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, all types of rot are most dangerous, developing very quickly with improper watering. If, at the same time, the temperature in the room is still maintained below normal, this is almost inevitable.
Most pests, even when they multiply in large numbers, will not kill the dracaena. But this does not mean that there is no need to fight them. The plant did not bring any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You will have to deal with the most common insects and mites that feed on its juice.
Most often, the dracaena needs urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. She reacts most painfully to improper watering - drought or swamp in a pot.
In the first case, cut off all dry leaves to living tissues, without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Spray every 2–3 days with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the window as southwest or southeast. Water as directed. If the roots are not damaged, in 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off, and hope that the lateral buds will wake up. But the chances are not so many.
In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Dracaena needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the season. But this procedure does not guarantee success, it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize the new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select the capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).
You can learn more about how to properly transplant dracaena from the material: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/peresadka-dratsenyi-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
Dracaena is a rather massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, often the fractures she received are the result of the violent activity of children and pets. In this case, don't be upset. If done correctly, you will end up with two instead of one plant.
Broken dracaena is not a reason to arrange a tragedy
The easiest way is when the barrel breaks, but does not break at all. Splints are applied to it, as if on an arm or a leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the wound as much as possible. The top can be wrapped with strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.
Don't forget to seal the cut
Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:
The material on breeding methods for dracaena will also be useful: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/dratsena-razmnozhenie-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
Lateral buds on dracaena wake up for a long time, be patient
Most often, the broken top of the dracaena is rooted in water.
Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune to attacks from diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly looked after rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual mistakes in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can provoke a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what causes certain symptoms and know what to do to cope with the problem.
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Dracaena is distinguished by its originality and beauty among indoor plants. The unpretentiousness of the plant in care adds additional popularity to the culture. It is generally accepted that this houseplant is easy to care for. However, even with this unpretentious plant, problems can arise. Drying and yellowing of foliage is considered a fairly common phenomenon. The reasons for such situations and ways to eliminate the problem are described in the article: dracaena leaves dry.
Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial, or viral.
|Round spots of brown shades appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the site of the lesion turns black.||Spores of the fungus got into the soil, excess moisture||Alternaria|
|The tips of the leaves dry up, spots with black dots appear inside.||Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil||Phylosticosis|
|Oblong spots of beige, yellow with red or brown edging, green bloom is possible, leaves turn yellow and dry quickly.||Incorrect watering regime, infection in the ground||Heterosporosis|
|Spots of different shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots.||Weakened immunity due to improper conditions of detention||Spotted wilting|
|Yellow stripes on the leaves and wet brown plaque (rot) on the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems.||Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate||Bacteriosis|
Most of all, dracaena are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of them are Alternaria and Phyllostikosis.... As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is the spores of fungi, which could be in the soil or were brought in from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden tools that have previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.
Fungal infection can be brought in through garden tools
If the dracaena is transplanted into a heavy garden soil, it is often and abundantly watered with running, unsettled water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all the species of dracaena, the most susceptible to bacteriosis is dracaena Deremskaya... This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for its variegated leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often the target of bacteria and fungus.
Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, the flower rarely strikes a spotted wilting. This virus can infect a plant that is already immunocompromised. For example, immunity decreases if a flower suffers from improper care for a long time or is damaged by pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.
Most often of the parasites on dracaena, you can find mealybugs, scale insects, thrips or spider mites.... Insect pests appear on the leaves of the plant when the air in the room is dry, there is not enough lighting and heat. Thus, the most favorable period for the appearance of parasites is autumn - winter, when it becomes cool at home, the sun does not shine so brightly, and flowers are near heating devices.
|On the inside of the leaves there are dark (red) spots, entangled in cobwebs, when the mite multiplies, a white sticky bloom and white larvae (similar to white sticks) appear on the leaves, trunk.||Spider mite||Wash the sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days.|
|The sheet is covered with a silvery film, black dots form inside the sheet, similar to scratches, a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries out.||Thrips||Spray three times with insecticide (Decis) at intervals of 1-2 weeks|
|Drooping dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate.||Shield||Wash the leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir)|
|White bloom, similar to an accumulation of cotton swabs or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and in the axils, the leaves dry and become deformed, covered with sticky, colorless drops.||Mealybug||Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with insecticide at intervals of 2 weeks|
|The leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky bloom, on the underside of the leaf and stems there are many white dots (also the larvae of aphids can be yellow, green or black, depending on the species).||Aphid||Spray with insecticides up to 3 times at intervals of 2 weeks|
Other signs also speak about the poor health of the dracaena - drying, blackening, leaf falling.
The process is often associated with violations of the conditions of detention - poorly regulated watering, too dry air, exposure to cold, especially in winter when airing. First of all, attention is paid to the mass of leaf fall:
Winter months are a difficult time for indoor dracaena: short daylight hours, dry air, risk of damaging the plant with cold air. One of the listed reasons is enough for the tree to begin to lose its leaves. Often, flower growers, not being able to create the necessary semi-rest conditions for the tropicana, transfer it to the winter regime of watering and feeding. This imbalance also causes leaf fall.
Consider the options when mistakes were made in caring for dracaena.
Usually dracaena tolerates low humidity well, despite the fact that its homeland is the tropics.
But with very dry air, the tips of its leaves first dry out, and then they become soft, lethargic and turn yellow throughout the crown. As a result, this leads to their mass drying and falling off.
A strong decrease in humidity in the room where the dracaena grows should not be allowed. In case of excessive dryness, it is advisable to install a humidifier. Dracaena can be kept in a deep tray with a damp substrate - pebbles, expanded clay or moss. Good results are obtained by spraying the plant with settled water twice a week.
Dracaena reacts painfully to rapid changes in conditions of detention. She does not tolerate a sharp drop in temperature and drafts. At the same time, its leaves may turn yellow or darken, and then fall off.
For the plant, you must choose a place protected from drafts. Do not place it near an opening window or balcony door.
When airing, especially in winter, it is advisable to take the dracaena to another room.
A sudden drop in temperature should also be avoided. Stable living conditions are the key to the health and beauty of this flower.
Another mistake in caring for dracaena is frequent and abundant watering. This can easily lead to decay of the roots, even in the hot summer period.
And in winter, when the plant is kept at a low temperature, the risk of developing root rot increases significantly.
Decay of dracaena roots immediately leads to changes in the ground part of the plant... Its leaves begin to turn yellow, dry up and fall off, and not only old, but also young leaf blades turn yellow.
Do not water the flower if the top layer of the earth is still wet.... The soil in the pot between waterings should dry out by at least 2 cm. Therefore, even in very hot weather, dracaena is watered no more than 2 times a week, and in winter, the watering intensity is reduced to 3 times a month.
If decay has already occurred, the dracaena should be transplanted into new soil.at. A new pot needs good drainage to keep the water from stagnating. With root rot, a complete transplant of dracaena is carried out with the removal of the earth and a thorough examination of the root system. All rotten, dark and dry roots should be removed.
In order for the dracaena to look beautiful, it needs regular feeding. Dracaena is fed twice a month in spring and summer..
If feeding is not carried out regularly or is absent at all, the plant does not receive enough nutrients for its growth. This leads to the fact that it sheds the lower leaves much faster than in the normal state.
If the dracaena has not been transplanted for a long time, its roots become cramped in the pot. They begin to emerge to the surface and through the drainage hole.
Without transplanting, the soil in the pot is severely depleted, the plant does not receive normal nutrition. Because of this, the flower is intensively losing the lower leaves. If the dracaena is not transplanted for a long time, it may die.
Top dressing will not help here. Young specimens must be transplanted every year into a larger pot and new soil. It is enough to replant mature plants every 3 years.