The greenhouse is open from April to November - three harvests per season


Tomatoes are ripening

The most important thing for a gardener is to provide himself with green products as early as possible. First greens lettuce, bow and spinachand we eat radishes on May 9, the last - in late October - early November, growing it as an intermediate crop in a greenhouse.

Our greenhouse 6 meters long and 3 meters wide, it stands on a foundation covered with cellular polycarbonate. Unlike a film greenhouse, cellular polycarbonate retains heat in the cold, and in the heat it is not very hot in the greenhouse. Therefore, we start sowing work in the greenhouse much earlier than in the foil greenhouse.

We prepare our greenhouse for sowing in the fall. This preparation consists in removing the soil layer on a shovel bayonet (we move it under apple trees), in washing polycarbonate and disinfecting it. We bring rotted manure into the greenhouse, compost, dig up and level the surface of the ridge with a rake. And now the greenhouse is ready for spring. In winter, I throw a good layer of snow on the ridges several times. The earth needs melt water, and since we do not dismantle our greenhouse for the winter, we ourselves have to provide the soil with "living" water (just like in a fairy tale).


In early spring (in mid-March), I cover the beds in the greenhouse with black film so that the earth warms up faster. I start the first sowing on April 1. Our greenhouse has three ridges that run from west to east. I sow plant seeds so that the very first greens or radishes can be pulled out and sent to the table, and seedlings of tomatoes and cucumbers can be planted in the vacant space. On the first ridge (along its southern side) I sow spinach around the perimeter, in the center - one row of onion sets for greens, and to the left and right of it - French breakfast radish.

On the central ridge, I plant it on the side Lollo Bionda salad and head lettuce of Mowgli varieties, Russian size, Arctic. I already plant seedlings, which I sow in bowls at home in early March. I sow the same spinach around the perimeter as on the first ridge, but I also place 10 seeds in a row with it kohlrabi cabbage (the interval between seeds is 10 cm, so as not to thin out). Kohlrabi will grow in a greenhouse. On the third ridge, which is located along the north side of the greenhouse, along the perimeter sow dill, and in the center one row - onion sets for greens, and to the left and right of it - radish.

After planting, I water the beds with water with a growth stimulator and an activator of the immune system - HB-101 (2 drops per one liter of water) and cover with lutrasil. Further care consists in timely watering the plants with warm water. I try not to allow the soil to dry out - radishes do not like this. For better growth and development of plants, once (after the emergence of shoots) I water the herbal infusion of nettle. To do this, I tightly put nettles in a bucket (a whole bucket), pour boiling water and insist for a day. I dilute the concentrated solution with water so that this bucket is enough for the entire greenhouse.

We begin to shoot the first harvest for the holiday - May 9. First, I take out radishes and greens where I will plant tomato and cucumber seedlings. On the same day I land there immediately tomato seedlings and cucumbers... In the holes for seedlings I put a teaspoon (without a slide) of AVA fertilizer and a pinch of nitrophoska or azofosk fertilizer.

Cucumbers varieties Chinese farm Cucumbers varieties Chinese farm

Seedlings are usually planted in plastic greenhouses later. The film does not keep warm at night, and the plants will die when return frosts come (and no one canceled them - we have such a climate). Unless you have to additionally cover the plants inside with foil and woven materials, or leave burning candles and lamps inside.

Heat-loving crops (cucumbers, tomatoes, summer flowers) are planted in film greenhouses when the first lilac flowers open and rowan on your site (data are from: Atlas of the Leningrad Region. - M .: Main Directorate of Geodesy and Cartography under the Council of Ministers of the USSR, 1967, p. 7). It is better to plant seedlings in greenhouses made of cellular polycarbonate in early May, when it is not very hot in it, and the seedlings take root better.

As tomatoes and cucumbers grow, radishes and greens are gradually removed and eaten. By the end of May, only grown and matured tomatoes and cucumbers grow on the beds. Along the ridges with tomatoes (along the perimeter) in an empty space, I again plant the onion sets on the greens.

It should be noted that I plant onion sets all the time throughout the warm period. To do this, in the spring, I buy several kilograms of onion sets at a sale. Sort it right away. I plant small and sprouted onions in April, plant medium ones in June, and large ones are stored in a box in room conditions until July and August.

I feed tomatoes and cucumbers once every ten days. In the first half of the growing season, I alternate the infusion of mullein, liquid fertilizer "Ideal" or Kemira universal (only Finnish fertilizer). Before flowering, I water the plants once with HB-101 (2 drops per liter of water) and spray it once (1 drop per liter of water). In the second half of the growing season, I feed the plants with ash infusion. Instead of phosphorus fertilizers, I use fish broth. To do this, I boil the fish heads (I collect them from early spring and keep them in the freezer), dilute the broth with water and water the plants at the root. Cucumbers are very fond of such dressings.

Tomatoes varieties Russian size

In the twentieth of July, I pinch the growth point of tomatoes so that all pollinated brushes can grow by mid-August. I remove tomatoes from the bushes on August 15-20. I don't keep it on the bush any longer, because in our climatic conditions late blight appears at this time (the exception was 2010, when all the tomatoes were ripe on the vine). In place of the tomatoes, I immediately plant onion sets, dill, radish, lettuce, spinach, Parade onion seeds for greens - all in the same way as in spring. By the end of September and at the beginning of October, we again get radishes and greens of salads, spinach, onion feathers to the table.

Cucumbers also bear fruit in October. To achieve this, I go for a trick. I plant only 5-6 cucumber bushes on a cucumber garden - we don't need it anymore. I grow cucumbers of hybrids Ginga F1 - four plants and “Chinese farm F1 (long-fruited, very tasty cucumbers) - two plants. In the spring, I do not plant all the plants in the greenhouse, but two Ginga F1 cucumber plants and two Chinese farm F1 plants. In early July, I sow two more Ginga F1 cucumbers on seedlings, which I plant in the space left for them on the cucumber garden.

By the end of September, the cucumbers planted in May are already producing poorly, and the plants planted in early July are at the peak of fruiting. If the autumn is without severe frosts, then we remove the cucumbers until the end of October. In September and October, once a week I water the cucumber plants with infusion nettles and HB-101. I do not fertilize with fertilizers, since fertilizers "work" in warm weather. And in the soil, a supply of nutrients is still present.

This is how our greenhouse works from the beginning of April to the beginning of November.

In early November, I take soil from a cucumber patch and sift it through a special geological sieve No. 5 for growing seedlings for the next season. Then I begin to prepare for the new season and the greenhouse. We have enough vegetables and herbs not only for ourselves, but we also distribute them to our friends. In addition to tomatoes, cucumbers and herbs in the greenhouse since spring, we grow cuttings of roses, which were presented in the spring in bouquets.

Olga Rubtsova, gardener,
Vsevolozhsky district of the Leningrad region


Preliminary information

Requirements for planted crops

So, expediency. Do you need this or that culture? And where will you do with the surplus if it is formed due to improperly planned planting volumes?

Rationality implies the correct determination of the timing and volume of planting, the use of optimal agricultural techniques. When choosing a culture, it is necessary to determine in advance how realistic the owner's capabilities are to create optimal conditions for growing this sample.

Feasibility and rationality are also ensured the right choice of variety the cultivated crop. By choosing the right design and arrangement of the greenhouse, rationally planning the change of plants in the greenhouse bed, you can achieve effective year-round operation of this green conveyor.

There is probably no need to explain what profitability is. This criterion is important for those who decided to extract income from the greenhouse. Greens and flowers are almost the same in terms of cost-effectiveness. But greens are the solution to the problem of winter vitamin deficiency, flowers are bright colors in the autumn and winter landscape, joy and a peaceful atmosphere in the house.

Classification of crops

Crops grown in greenhouses can be broken down into types:

  • greens
  • vegetables
  • roots
  • fruits
  • berries
  • medicinal plants
  • flowers and other ornamental plants.

When organizing a rational process, plants planted in greenhouses, classified into the following groups:

  1. Precursor crops, which are early maturing cold-hardy vegetables and greens. Examples: early carrots (early), radishes, spinach, dill.
  2. Main cultures. They can be tomatoes and cucumbers, bell peppers and eggplants.
  3. Catch crops serve to fill the space not occupied by the main crops. As it grows and develops, the main culture gradually replaces the intermediate one. This technique ensures the rational use of the greenhouse space.
  4. Winter crops. Examples: sorrel, chicory, parsnip.

In addition to plant food, medicinal and ornamental plants can be grown in the greenhouse. And for yourself and, especially, for sale. Examples: roses and peonies, dahlias, nasturtiums, asters.


Alternation of cultures

First harvest we collect three-year-old early strawberries from the garden, for example, the ‘Yulia’ variety, which bears fruit for the last time and must be uprooted. Instead, in the same season, it is planned to plant a strawberry mustache in another place specially selected taking into account the crop rotation. Depending on weather conditions, berry picking ends around the first decade of July.


We collect the first harvest from the garden of three-year-old early strawberries

Immediately after that, we cut down the strawberry bushes on this bed under the root with a heavy hoe, send all the green mass obtained to the compost bin and plow the freed up space with the help of a mechanical cultivator. The cultivator not only loosens the soil: its cutters also very well crush the roots of the felled old strawberries remaining in the ground. On the plowed area, we immediately break up an ordinary bed and, without delay, sow it with radishes.


We break up an ordinary bed and sow it with radishes

Radish after garden strawberry grows very well: by the beginning of August the first root crops are already ripening, and after a few days you can completely remove the radish. Cute, strong, tasty radishes are already second harvest from the marked garden.

You can choose different varieties of radishes for your garden in our market. Check out the Radish Seeds section.


As soon as the radish is harvested, we no longer dig up the garden bed, but only fix it and immediately sow it with ‘Azart’ or ‘Kucheryavets Odesskiy’ salad. The approximate time for its sowing falls at the beginning of August. This culture feels good after such a predecessor as radish, it sprouts quickly, begins to grow actively, and already in the first half of September, the leaves are quite suitable for eating.


Third crop from the garden - salad

Nighttime cold snaps and even frosts, which in our area begin in late August - early September, do not in the least prevent the salad from gaining strength. In favorable weather, its juicy, tasty greens can be picked until mid-October and even longer. Salad is just becoming the culture that gives third harvest from one garden bed per season.

If the weather turns out to be too unfavorable, and the maturation of strawberries is delayed, the timing of sowing radish and lettuce is also shifted. For them in this situation, you can apply fast-acting organic liquid dressings. After such fertilization, the plants that have lagged behind in development quickly make up for the time lost due to the cold.


3 harvests from one garden per season is not an end in itself

“Of course, I didn’t set myself such a goal - to grow several crops per season, of course, - Viktor Sergeenko comments. “It’s just my efforts to achieve maximum efficiency in my summer cottage garden led me to this”... There are many options for alternating different crops on the same bed per season, and everyone, if desired, can come up with their own suitable combination for specific growing conditions.

And the achieved result is obvious: by successfully alternating different crops, you can not only get more harvest from one garden bed - strawberries, radishes, and lettuce - but also improve the soil in the summer cottage as a whole due to the correct and more active crop rotation! Viktor Sergeenko is an active and active person. He regularly shares his experience in gardening and horticulture on his YouTube channel, and has collected the most important and reliable advice in the book “Vegetable Garden. How I Grow Healthy Vegetables ”, which can be purchased from the publisher's official online store.


Help me choose a polycarbonate greenhouse!

I have 4x3, I clean the snow regularly. When I put it, I did not guess about the second door, so I have a door and a window in front of me, but as big as half a door. Enough for airing, I almost never close the window. On the other side, after 50 cm, there is a neighbor's greenhouse, so I did not realize about the second door, because there is no entrance from there. A small shadow in the afternoon from the neighbor's greenhouse (it is higher) and I also planted a little Jerusalem artichoke from the south (to the left of the greenhouse), it is more than 2 m tall, the bush is huge, it also shades a little.
In the second photo, I cleaned it.


Oleg, I just see that the polycarbonate has slightly changed its state in winter, it has risen slightly above the arcs in the intervals between fastenings, and when the entrance has not yet frozen, I already saw a small dent from the inside.
I clean both this and the large glass greenhouse, which also has a polycarbonate roof. True, because of the slope, I can't reach one side of it, but as far as possible from the inside I tap with a mop and the vibration shakes off the snow.
In our SNT last year, 2 greenhouses were crumpled, such as my arc polycarbonate ones. I know that snow is very hard.


Prepare the sleigh in the summer. and the greenhouse - from the fall.

I decided to build the greenhouse last year. It seems that, you say, a greenhouse is not needed in the south ... No, it is. It is needed for several reasons.
The first and the most significant one: for four years in a row in the Kuban, the tomato crop has been poorly ... Every year, when they were already large and filled with milky ripeness, they were mowed down either by bacteriosis or gray rot ... And bacteriosis is such a thing. worse than phytophthora ... As far as I understand, there is no cure for it ... Last year I noticed that my neighbors from the villagers cover their tomatoes with "tents", that is, those plants that survived "in the house" ... Well, and, accordingly, those that were in greenhouses ...

Here on the site, with the help of our experts, I have already realized that the whole trouble is in high humidity and heat ... Both the heat and humidity in the coastal zone are already off scale. and if it still rains ... Write is gone. So I decided to put up a greenhouse.

The second reason is that we have almost no frost BEFORE the Christmas holidays. only if the wind blows ... And from the middle of February - there are ALREADY no frosts. The February windows are coming. And a cold snap, again, can happen only if the northeast blows out. Accordingly, almost all year round you can grow in a greenhouse ... at least something ... And if you also build a greenhouse on top. then, in general, beauty ... Though all year round =))

The third reason ... Yes, I'm tired of just having cups and trays in the spring to mess around.but there will be a greenhouse, I decided, all the problems will disappear by themselves ... Especially the picking of seedlings =)) Yes, and it stretched out on the windows ... It is not good to eat.

In general, I decided to decide last year, but I didn’t buy it ... But I rushed in already in February.
It would seem that it could be easier to buy a greenhouse. There are a lot of sites. there was no financial question ... Just choose ... But it turned out to be the most difficult choice.
The most important factor was that I needed a strong, powerful, heavy greenhouse ... That's the only way. We have a wind. Very strong wind. When I hear ... somewhere out there ... "hurricane", with a force of 15 m / sec., I find it funny :) 25-30 m / sec. we have ... a common thing ... And at least once a season (from November to March) we have winds up to 60 m / s.
I want to clarify that there is a plant for the production of greenhouses in our city, it seems that everything should be foreseen. but my husband was skeptical, since our plant does not have all-welded arcs and frames, but only collapsible ones ... And although we were convinced that “no one else has flown away or collapsed,” my husband categorically refused to buy such an option.

More ... Galvanized or powder coated. I will not be clever now =)), I will only say that my husband decided that galvanizing is better. as once and for all. and the metal, covered with an anti-corrosion coating, will have to be painted again in three years ... The humidity in our country is going through the roof, we will not be able to do without it.

In general, the search continued ... It was already March ... At first, of course, we were looking for greenhouses around the edge ... We ordered three times ... and canceled three times ... Once we even returned what we had already brought. it turned out to be too flimsy. although according to the stories and the description ... well, super-durable ... The most offensive thing is that the order was on the edge. when ordering, I clarified that we are taking to Novorossiysk. she reminded me of the wind, although everyone knows about the horrors of Nord-Ost around the edge ... They brought a greenhouse. Flimsy. Okay, we swallowed this fact in silence. but when we got into the assembly instructions, we saw an interesting line - "a guarantee with a wind force of up to 5 m / s." =))
Now it's funny. and then the psycho got through. ended March. in a week or two, the tomatoes could be planted in open ground. and if we had planted them in the greenhouse on time, they would have bloomed already.

In general, I will not convey all the hardships of the search. but we stopped at a manufacturing plant in the city of Neftekamsk ... Well, imagine where we are and where Bashkiria is ... We stopped. but there were ALREADY no greenhouses satisfying our requirements ... Spring. Not a season. Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the greenhouse in the fall =)) This is the truth.
Ordered ... Wait ... Delivered. May 27. WE HAVE. At this time we already have + 30 ... But nothing ... better later than never.

Now about the greenhouse itself. The greenhouse is not too big ... I already regret not having taken more :)) Width-340, length-600, height-200.
Metal thickness 1.5 mm. Galvanized profile. All-welded arcs 40 to 20. Frame-base - 40 to 40. Ends - 20 to 20. The husband wanted almost cast iron. but. what was, what was.

The husband installed the greenhouse himself.
First, I made a frame from a "weaving" bar ... I connected the bar with high beds from a "fifty" board ... And already on this structure I installed a greenhouse frame ... In the fall, I also want to reinforce it with reinforcement. away from sin.

Well, inside ... I'm happy =)) Clever husband. Three high beds, 70 cm wide. Two aisles - 65 cm each. The aisles are a bit narrow, but you can also walk and drive with a wheelbarrow.

The aisles were covered with pebbles. They covered it up for beauty and so that the weeds would not grow, but it turned out that this is also an ideal solution to reduce humidity in the greenhouse ... It's dry.
The beds turned out like this.

Then my husband figured out for me these "sitters".

The trick is that they move along the beds. you can sit both "ladies" and "on horseback". Very comfortably.
Further, when I had already planted the tomatoes, the question arose of how to tie them up. Neither stakes nor strings suited me.
My husband came up with this.

Ordinary plastic construction tape ... Cut into strips.

One long strip is thrown on two sides at once, that is, on two tomato bushes.

It was planned, of course, that the tomatoes themselves would crawl into the cells :)) But still, you have to tie them in several places.

See? On the left is a conventional plastic cable tie used most often for securing wires.

And this is how this mesh is attached to the garden bed.

Well, and a container for water, of course ... I hope my husband will do drip irrigation next year.

It's hot here, so a net was thrown over the greenhouse, protecting it by 55 percent from ultraviolet radiation ... But the summer was so hot that it could have been 80 percent.

Well, like that ... We live ... We eat tomatoes =)) When we ordered a greenhouse, we ordered an additional window. but her husband did not put her right away. and then it was not needed ... The summer was very hot, not only the vents, but also the doors were wide open all day long ... Next year, maybe we will deliver.

In addition to the three reasons why you need to set up a greenhouse listed above. there are also my own "pluses", because of which I am not overjoyed at the greenhouse.
One of the advantages is that I don't have a barn yet. there is nowhere to store garden tools, now it is all there. stands neatly in a corner ... There is also a plastic tank in which I have gloves, ropes, clamps and other small things.
The second plus ... The greenhouse closes the "problem" corner, with a flimsy, in some places, fence ... I have a Rottweiler ... He has not bit anyone yet. but they are afraid of him, "like the devil of incense."
Another plus ... My ubiquitous dog (ubiquitous - with one "s", but with two. Also, really) ... My dog ​​is a vegetarian ... He eats everything that grows ... It's more offensive when he doesn't eat so much. how much "bites".
Another plus ... Between the greenhouse and the fence there was a piece of about 12 sq.m. There I will plant raspberries. The long-awaited shadow appeared, thanks to the greenhouse. in addition, the water is nearby ... Well, and from the vegetarian Rottweiler ... I think he would like raspberries :))
Well, one more thing ... I don't have a gazebo yet ... And long winter rains. will be where to bump into.
That's all :))
I hope that this article will help the same "dummies" as I was last year ... Now, I'm closer to. "Coffee pot". therefore, if someone has thoughts and photos regarding possible improvements, I would be very happy if you can participate in the discussion. Thank you =))


Garden bed care

Garlic belongs to unpretentious garden crops. All he needs is proper watering, loosening and feeding if necessary.

Garlic beds are watered once a week or two in normal weather, and in the rainy season, watering is reduced to a minimum. They are stopped two weeks before harvest. Periodically, the beds are loosened for better moisture saturation.

Garlic is fed three times per season:

  • after the appearance of the first 2-3 leaves, the garden bed is watered with water and urea at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket of water
  • after a couple of weeks, watered with another solution: half a spoonful of urea and one spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per bucket of water
  • when the bulbs form and the arrows appear, make the last top dressing: two tablespoons of superphosphate and a spoonful of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water.


Choosing a variety of carrots

To provide the family with fresh vegetables, it is best to choose varieties that are adapted to the local climate. Cultures of Russian selection are stored for a long time and have good taste. Foreign hybrids are grown most often for commercial purposes.

When choosing carrot seeds, attention is paid to the timing of its germination and ripening, the maturation period, appearance, vitamin content. Some owners sow carrots before winter, others only in spring. Early varieties can be used for food and processing, later varieties are good for storage. In a word, there are a lot of nuances in the "carrot" business.

Today there is a wide variety of varietal carrots. In terms of ripening, it is divided into early, late and mid-season. Most varieties (excluding the early ripening version), subject to temperature and humidity, retain their properties until the next season.

Early carrot varieties are used for freezing and canning.

An early harvest of carrots (60–80 days) is achieved by planting varieties such as:

  1. Carotel Parisian (with rounded orange fruits and delicate taste)
  2. Dragon (with purple skin and orange flesh)
  3. Finkhor (fruits are large, smooth, rich in carotene)
  4. other varieties resistant to cracking (Amsterdam, Nandrin), with cylindrical (Tushon, Feya) and spherical (Parmex) fruits.

Mid-season Carrot varieties are distinguished by sweet taste and juiciness, ripen in 80–120 days, and are well stored. Some of them are suitable for winter sowing: Nantes 4, Moscow winter A 515, Incomparable, Samson. For dietary and baby food, the Losinoostrovskaya 13, Karotel variety is ideal. Varieties can boast of high yield and high carotene content: Vitamin 6, NIIOKh 336, Rote-Risen (Red Giant), Forto, Alenka, Sentyabrina.

Late Carrot varieties (ripening 120–150 days) are inferior in sweetness to mid-season varieties, but they have large roots and are stored for a long time. Popular varieties are:

  • Vita Longa (excellent variety for juice)
  • Yellowstone (fusiform carrot)
  • Queen of Autumn, MO (Special Carrot), Chantenay 2461 (with conical fruits up to 22 cm long).

Hybrids Abaco and the Emperor are quite capricious: they require frequent watering, crack, and are not stored for a long time. However, they are suitable for cooking, preserving and preparing salads.

Unusual varieties of carrots include white, red, black and yellow root vegetables. They are delicious and juicy and contain a lot of nutrients. Fodder varieties of carrots are grown for animals.


Watch the video: 5 Low Cost Greenhouse Ideas


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