The vast majority of gardeners are sincerely sure that they know everything about carrot cultivation. However, it is not always possible to harvest a bountiful harvest. This plant cannot be called extremely capricious and demanding in care, but it also has its own wishes for the cultivation conditions, the quality of the substrate, the timing of planting, and so on. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with these nuances in advance.
Varieties and hybrids of carrots in stores are presented in the widest range. Russian and foreign breeders are constantly developing new varieties. Each option has its own indisputable advantages, so it is often quite difficult to make a choice. It is necessary to take into account not only the appearance and the declared taste of the fruit. This is important, but not critical. Other factors are decisive - the length of the growing season, exactingness to the quality of the substrate, shelf life, suitability for cultivation in a particular region, taking into account the climate, the ability to tolerate the vagaries of the weather.
Carrot seeds in specialty stores are available in the widest range, when it comes to selection, it's easy to get confused.
Some general rules can be formulated right away:
There are very few varieties suitable for planting in any region of Russia. It is still better to purchase zoned ones, specially adapted to the climatic and weather conditions of a particular area. Most often, this information is on the seed package. Or you can check it in the State Register of Breeding Achievements. Among the universal carrots can be called Alenka, Nantes, Queen of Autumn, Cardinal.
The Alyonka carrot variety in Russia successfully takes root and yields a harvest wherever gardening is possible.
Gardeners living in the so-called regions of risky farming need to be especially careful. In central Russia, you can plant almost any carrot. But in the Urals, in Siberia, in the Far East, they choose mainly zoned ones.
An early variety is considered if the roots can be harvested 85-100 days after the emergence of seedlings. The most popular carrots among gardeners are Minicor, Touchon, Incomparable, Nantes, Artek, Rex. Mid-season varieties ripen in 100-110 days. These include, for example, Samson carrots, Callisto F1, Vitamin, Guéranda, Boltex. Late-ripening varieties are harvested no earlier than 125 days after germination. Common varieties are Shantane, Red Giant, Canada, Monastic, Valeria, Flakkoro, Scarla, Red Cor. It is advisable to plant several varieties of different ripening periods so that the ripening of root crops proceeds gradually.
Few people know that carrots are a plant with a two-year development cycle: if you leave the roots in the garden for the winter, next fall you can collect seeds
Taste and yield are criteria that gardeners invariably take into account. The best in this regard are the varieties of carrots Forto, Minicor, Callisto F1, Karotel. Size matters too. The largest root crops ripen when the Russian size, Emperor, Rogneda, Ramosa, Typhoon, Vita Longi are planted.
Crop rotation is extremely important for productive agriculture. Carrots are planted in the same area for no more than two years in a row. Then, for the same time, it is desirable to occupy it with green manure or plants from the legume family. They improve the quality of the substrate while at the same time saturating it with nitrogen. The best predecessors for the culture are Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin), Solanaceous (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, bell peppers) and Cruciferous (cabbage, radish, radish, daikon).
Eggplants, like other Solanaceae, are quite suitable neighbors and predecessors for carrots.
It is not recommended to plant carrots after other plants from the Umbrella family (dill, parsley, celery, parsnips, anise, caraway seeds, fennel). They are bad neighbors for her. Such placement of beds significantly increases the risk of death of most or all of the crop due to pathogenic fungi and pest attacks. Another unwanted precursor is lettuce. Carrots can suffer from white rot. She categorically refuses to grow after sunflower and tobacco.
The presence of dill or other plants from the Umbrella family next to carrots greatly increases the risk of developing diseases and pest attacks
A very good solution is to place onions and carrots next to it. This has a positive effect on the yield of both crops. The onion effectively repels the carrot fly, and it has the same effect on the onion fly.
Onions and carrots planted next to each other effectively drive away dangerous pests from each other
The bed for carrots is chosen so that during the day it is illuminated by the sun for as long as possible. Direct rays do not have a negative effect on the landing. But the lack of light and heat leads to the fact that the roots are deformed, thinner and smaller. Their flesh is tough and almost tasteless. Good ventilation is also very desirable.
Sunlight and heat are critical for the normal development of root crops
Another very important factor is the level of groundwater. They should not come closer than a meter to the surface. The opposite is evidenced by the abundance of moss on the soil and its bluish tide. Any lowlands and steep slopes are excluded. The plot must be flat, otherwise the seeds will simply be washed out of the garden if the spring is rainy.
The factor determining the timing of planting carrots is the climatic and weather conditions of each specific region. For example, in the south of Russia this is done already in the first half of April. In areas with a temperate climate, it is better to schedule the procedure at the very end of this month or at the beginning of May. In Siberia, the Urals, the Far East, the Northern and Northwest regions, it is postponed for another 2.5-4 weeks.
The air temperature by the time of disembarkation should be stable at around 9-12 ° C at night and 15-18 ° C during the day. The soil must also be allowed to warm up. A reliable reference point in this regard is folk omens. It is recommended to plant carrots on the 23rd day after the first flowers of the coltsfoot appear, as well as when birch and currant buds begin to bloom, forsythia, hazel, and violet will bloom.
The beginning of flowering of hazel means that the soil has already warmed up enough, and you can start planting carrots
Short return spring frosts down to -5 ° C will not kill carrot seeds, especially if you pre-tighten the garden bed with any covering material. But its keeping quality will deteriorate sharply. However, you should not rush, planting carrots before everyone else. Seeds undermine, rot develops. Seedlings do not appear for a long time, they are overtaken even by those specimens that were planted 10-15 days later.
Do not rush too much with planting carrots - if the soil is still cold, seedlings will not appear earlier, but later than usual
Early carrots are planted first. Mid-season and late - with an interval of about two weeks. Too long is also not worth it. If you plant late-ripening carrots in the 20th of June, you can simply not wait for the harvest until the first frost, especially in the conditions of the Ural and Siberian summers.
Many gardeners in matters of planting certain crops are guided by the recommendations of the lunar calendar. But following his instructions blindly, perhaps, is still not worth it. Planting carrots if it is raining or snowing on the street is at least unreasonable, even on a declared auspicious day.
In 2019, it is recommended to plant carrots on the following auspicious days:
Those who are guided by folk signs try to do this on women's days of the week (Wednesday, Friday, Saturday). It is believed that in this case, carrots show the best germination.
Preparing a bed for carrots is the same mandatory procedure as for all other crops. Although many gardeners neglect it, at best it loosens the soil in the fall.
Carrots prefer a light substrate that does not retain water and does not interfere with normal aeration. Therefore, the bed will have to be dug twice. The first time - to a depth of at least 30 cm, the second - to 15–20 cm. In dense, heavy soil, root crops of the correct shape and sizes typical of the variety do not ripen. 7–10 days after the second digging, the bed is covered with organic matter (a mixture of rotted compost or humus with peat crumbs in approximately equal proportion), consuming 5–7 l / m², and left until spring. Fresh manure for carrots is not recommended. It is better to use it when preparing the beds for the previous culture, that is, one and a half years before planting it.
For carrots, the looseness of the soil is very important, so the garden bed is dug up carefully and more than once.
You can also tweak the quality of the substrate. The ideal option for carrots is black soil, fertile loam, acceptable - sandy loam, forest gray soil, sod-podzolic soil. In very light soil, powder clay must be applied at the rate of 10 kg per running meter of the bed. In dense silty or peaty soil - sand in the same proportion. Plant roots, pebbles, and other debris are carefully selected. When faced with solid particles, the roots are deformed, bifurcated, and bent.
The acid-base balance is no less important. The culture prefers neutral soil. If this is not the case, dolomite flour, slaked lime, the shell of raw chicken eggs crushed to a powdery state, and crushed chalk are introduced into the acidic soil. A useful additive for alkaline substrates - needles, fresh sawdust of coniferous trees, peat.
Dolomite flour is a natural soil deoxidizer, if the recommended dosage is observed, it has no side effects
Approximately 15–20 days before the planned planting, the soil is thoroughly loosened and mineral fertilizers are applied, potash (10–15 g / m²) and phosphoric (25–30 g / m²). The most common of them are potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium, simple and double superphosphate. It is undesirable to use nitrogen (and even more so to overdo it with it). Nitrates, which are harmful to health, accumulate in root crops. The source of this macronutrient will be the organic matter introduced in the fall.
Those who, for one reason or another, refuse mineral fertilizers, can replace them with sifted wood ash. It contains not only potassium and phosphorus, but also magnesium, sodium, iron, sulfur, zinc, molybdenum. This fertilizer is appreciated not only by adherents of natural agriculture, but also by those who prefer to collect carrot seeds on their own. Their experience shows that when using mineral fertilizers, they degenerate within 3-4 years. When planted, instead of one normal carrot, a beard is formed from many fibrous roots. They also argue that root crops fertilized with ash are better stored, they never taste bitter, they have a more uniform core.
Wood ash is a very useful and completely natural fertilizer
If the substrate on the site is ideal for carrots, it is enough to plant any green manure plants at the end of summer as part of the preparation. Towards the end of October, the greens are mown and embedded in the soil. It is an excellent natural fertilizer.
Mustard leaf is one of the most popular green manures; it not only improves the quality of the substrate, but also repels many pests.
The optimal bed width for carrots is 0.8–1.2 m. If you make it already, you will have to form several at once - with one it is simply impossible to get a bountiful harvest. With a larger width, problems arise with weeding, watering, harvesting. The length depends only on the area of the personal plot and the wishes of the gardener. There is no need to make the ridge too high, but it is still desirable to raise it by 10–12 cm. This will help to keep moisture in the soil in case of a lack of precipitation, and to get rid of its excess in heavy rains.
If you make a bed for carrots too narrow, you will not be able to harvest a bountiful harvest, and on a wide bed it is difficult to care for plantings
This stage of preparation is excluded only for granular carrot seeds, resembling dragees, hybrids of foreign breeding, treated with fungicides and insecticides (painted in an unusual color). They are already fully prepared for disembarkation. But such seeds are quite expensive, so many gardeners prefer to save money and do everything they need on their own. Moreover, there is nothing complicated about it.
Granulated carrot seeds are completely ready for planting and do not need any additional procedures
You can make such pills yourself, although you have to tinker. The basis of the composition is fresh manure diluted with water 1:10. The liquid must be mixed well and filtered several times through a dense cloth. Then it is boiled, in the process adding 20-30 ml of Kornevin or Heteroauxin, 2 g of zinc sulfate, 3 g of ammonium molybdate, 0.5 g of copper sulfate, boric acid and potassium permanganate per liter. For stickiness add gelatin, sugar syrup, starch paste, special glue based on pectin. The seeds are treated with the composition, spraying from a finely dispersed spray bottle. Such carrots ripen 7-15 days earlier than usual.
The first thing to do is check seed germination. To do this, they are immersed in a solution of sodium chloride (15–20 g / l). Enough 7-10 minutes, then those in which there is no embryo, floated to the surface. There is absolutely no point in planting them.
Saline solution quickly determines the germination of any seeds
Stressful temperature swings help wake up seeds that are hibernating during the winter. Within 7-10 days, wrapped in a damp cloth, they are placed at night on the lower shelf of the refrigerator, and during the day they are kept in the warmest place of the apartment. Another option is alternate soaking in hot (40–50 ° C) and cool (18–22 ° C) water. For the first time, the processing time is five minutes, for the second, ten. The third time, the seeds are poured with hot water and just allowed to cool. The procedure takes three days.
Gardeners also practice bubbling. This allows the seed germination period to be halved. They are poured with soft settled water at room temperature, a conventional aquarium compressor is connected and left for a day or a little less, saturating with oxygen.
The aquarium compressor saturates the water with oxygen, which is very beneficial for the seeds
Carrot seeds, especially those collected on their own, may well be carriers of spores of pathogenic fungi, causative agents of viral diseases. Even if they were purchased from a store, disinfection should not be neglected. The seeds are poured into a linen or gauze bag and immersed in a dense pink solution of potassium permanganate for 2-3 hours.
Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants
The processing time can be reduced to 15–20 minutes using modern fungicides - copper-containing preparations of biological origin. They are safe for human health and the natural environment. The most popular among gardeners are Fitosporin-M, Phytocid, Fitolavin, Alirin-B, Previkur. The treated seeds are washed under a stream of cool running water, dried to a state of flowability.
The final stage of processing is the use of biostimulants. The procedure is carried out about a day or two before planting, the seeds are not washed after it. Processing takes 6-8 hours. You can use both purchased preparations (Rizoplan, Epin, Fitodoctor, Immunocytofit) and folk remedies (potato and aloe juice, liquid honey diluted with water, succinic acid tablets, mumiyo, baking soda solution). A 0.02% boric acid solution and 0.01% cobalt nitrate will help to increase the keeping quality of the future harvest.
Folk remedies cope with the task no worse than purchased biostimulants
If there is a desire to get earlier (about 4–7 days) and mass shoots, the seeds still need to be allowed to hatch. They are again wrapped in a damp cloth, gauze, napkin and placed in the warmest place in the room. The easiest way is to put them in a saucer and put them on a radiator. It takes up to five days for the seeds to hatch. In this case, treatment with biostimulants is excluded.
Sprouted carrot seeds sprout much faster
Carrot seeds are especially carefully selected for sowing before winter. They must be large, not deformed and always dry. Any soaking during preparation is excluded - the planting material will simply freeze out.
Carrots in the garden are planted exclusively with seeds, growing seedlings is not practiced. Subsequent transplantation, especially if a dive was also carried out beforehand, irreversibly damages the root. As a result (if the plant survives at all), the roots are very small and uneven.
For planting carrots in the ground, furrows are formed with a depth of 1.5-3 cm. The row spacing is about 20 cm. Seeds are not sown too often, with an interval of 2-4 cm. The depth of the grooves is very important. If they are shallow, the seeds will be carried away by the wind or water, deep - they simply will not germinate. Each furrow is spilled with boiling water about 2-3 hours before planting, a little sifted wood ash or eggshell crushed to a powdery state is poured.
Sprinkle the seeds with soil, tamp it lightly with your palms. If it is still cool enough outside or frosts are expected, it is better to tighten the garden bed with any covering material before shoots appear. Water it often, as the topsoil dries up. When the seeds germinate, the intervals are increased to 3-4 days.
During the growing season, if the climate permits, carrots can be planted three times - in spring, in the second half of June and in autumn, before winter.
The seeds of carrots are quite small, it is difficult to plant them evenly. To then avoid the thinning procedure, gardeners have resorted to using various devices. You can buy them in the store or make your own.
The manual seeder is easy to make yourself
Homemade gadgets do the job just as well as store ones. To do this, you can adapt:
A store-bought piston seed planter, there are many homemade alternatives
If carrots are planted before winter, they are deepened deeper, at least 5–6 cm. On top of the furrows, they are covered with exceptionally warm soil, which is brought into the room for a day or two. The garden bed is mulched with a mixture of humus and peat crumbs. You can also sprinkle sand over the furrows - this will make them easier to spot in the spring.
Sticky tape with carrot seeds is simply laid in the furrow, then covered with earth
Many gardeners are experimenting with planting methods for carrots and at the same time consistently collect very good yields. Upon closer examination, it turns out that at first glance, strange methods are not devoid of undoubted advantages.
In addition to buckets, they use old barrels, pots, and so on. Such a container can be placed in any corner of the garden plot with an acute shortage of space.
First, you need to remove the bottom completely or drill a large number of drainage holes in it and in the walls. The container is approximately half filled with a mixture of ordinary garden soil and humus, about 2–2.5 weeks before planting, abundantly watered with a solution of any nitrogen fertilizer (10–15 g per 10 l).
Root vegetables grown in a bucket are presentable and very large
Before sprouting, the bucket is closed - this eliminates the risk of the seeds being washed out of the soil or blown away. The substrate in the container warms up faster, so the crop ripens earlier. The emerging seedlings are covered with earth, gradually filling the bucket completely. During the summer, plantings require abundant watering and regular feeding with organic fertilizers. The carrots are smooth and very large.
A limited number of root vegetables can be grown in the bucket. The yield increases markedly if the planting area is increased to a wooden box 20–25 cm high. In the fall, any organic debris is poured into the bottom, then humus and ordinary soil. Such a bed warms up much faster in the spring.
Mulch effectively protects the soil from drying out and overheating, significantly saves the gardener time for weeding. The soil stays loose for a longer time - these are carrots very fond of. It is a favorable habitat for humus-producing earthworms.
The method also has a significant drawback - if freshly cut grass, hay, straw is used as mulch, mice and other rodents are often found there. The best option is humus, peat crumbs, green manure, nettle. The needles are not used, they strongly acidify the substrate.
Mulching the carrot bed, among other things, helps the gardener save time on weeding and increase the intervals between waterings.
The bed is covered with mulch when the seedlings grow up to 12-15 cm in height, and the thickness of the root crop reaches the little finger. The soil will probably warm up well by this time - mulch keeps not only warmth, but also coolness. A layer of 7–8 cm is poured. If you overdo it, the plants can simply burn out.
Hydrogel is a synthetic material in the form of small multi-colored balls or crystals. By absorbing water, they increase in volume, simultaneously loosening and moisturizing the substrate.
The hydrogel retains moisture for a long time, saturating the soil with it
When planting carrots, the already swollen granules are placed in the furrow, spilled with warm water, and the seeds are sprinkled on top with them. If you use a hydrogel, the risk of mold and rot is greatly reduced. Seedlings appear noticeably faster - in about a week. You have to water the garden less often. This is especially important for gardeners who do not have the opportunity to permanently live on the site.
The taste of jelly in this case is unimportant, therefore it is prepared simply from starch and water. Dissolve about 30 g in 100 ml and, gradually pouring into a small (1 L) saucepan filled with water, bring to a boil. The finished mass should be viscous, but without lumps.
For one glass, about a teaspoon of seeds is enough. Stir them thoroughly and pour the liquid into a teapot, a watering can with a narrow spout, and so on.
The jelly with carrot seeds is thoroughly mixed so that they are distributed as evenly as possible.
The prepared furrow is spilled with jelly, covered with earth on top and slightly moistened. Enough about 250 ml per furrow. Starch is good food for seeds, seedlings appear about a week earlier, seedlings develop more actively.
Chinese carrots are grown in the ridges. This allows the soil to warm up faster and the plants get more sunlight. The risk of soil waterlogging is significantly reduced. The crop is easier to harvest.
The optimum height of the ridge is 20–30 cm. The interval between them is about 60 cm. They are formed by simply raking the top, most fertile soil layer from both sides. If the soil is poor, you can first distribute humus mixed with superphosphate and potassium sulfate (15 g and 30 g per 5 liters, respectively) over the bed.
The Chinese method of growing carrots requires the construction of high ridges.
Seeds are planted in two rows on opposite sides of the top of the ridge. They are deepened by a maximum of 2 cm. During the first month, sufficient watering is important. To harvest the roots, simply rake the ridges.
If you plant the carrots too thick, then thinning will be needed. But this is a rather time-consuming procedure. In addition, it is easy to damage the roots of neighboring plants, which were planned to be left in the garden. There are planting methods to avoid thinning.
Thinning for carrot shoots is a mandatory procedure if the plantings are too thick, otherwise there will simply not be enough space for root crops
Cultivation practice shows that when planted before winter, root crops are larger and sweeter than usual. But for long-term storage, they are categorically not suitable.
The landing site must be flat. Otherwise, the seeds will simply be washed off with melt water. Only mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil. The variety is chosen early-maturing and cold-resistant (it is the variety, not the hybrid). These criteria are met by carrots Shantane, Vitamin, Moscow winter, Nantes-4, Incomparable. The seeds are taken as regular, not granulated.
Shantane carrots are quite suitable for planting before winter
Landing is carried out already in frozen soil at an air temperature during the day no more than 2-3 ° C, soil - about -3 ° C. This is the first half of November, in the southern regions - December. Thaws are still possible in October - the seeds will begin to develop, hatch and die in winter. They do not need to be pre-soaked and germinated. The usual rate per furrow is increased by about 20%. Its depth is 5–6 cm.
When planting in autumn, carrot seeds need to be buried deeper than usual.
From above, the furrows are covered with warm earth, mulched with a mixture of peat crumbs with humus or rotted compost, creating a layer at least 5 cm thick. The substrate is slightly compacted, covered with straw, fallen leaves, spruce branches. When enough snow falls, a snowdrift is raked up. During the winter, it gradually settles, so it will be necessary to renovate the structure 2-3 times, breaking the hard crust on the surface.
In mid-March, the bed is cleared of snow, tightened with black covering material on arcs. After the first shoots appear, the shelter is removed. Planting care is normal. The crop is harvested in the second decade of June.
Experienced gardeners advise planting radishes between the rows of carrots. It rises earlier in the spring, marking the furrows. This makes loosening and weeding much easier.
The profitability of growing carrots in a greenhouse on small backyards is questionable. This only makes sense on an industrial scale. It is sown in a heated greenhouse in September, harvesting by the New Year and at the beginning of March. Then the roots will ripen by the first days of June.
For planting, select varieties of early and medium ripening. They must be suitable for indoor cultivation. Suitable, for example, Minicor carrots, Earley Nantes, Mokush, Amsterdam forcing, Red giant.
The landing pattern and preparation for the procedure is similar to that recommended for open ground. Practice shows that carrots grown in a greenhouse are less likely to suffer from diseases and pests, but preventive treatments should not be neglected.
In an unheated greenhouse, carrots are planted in early April. It is desirable that it be oriented from east to west and have a gabled rather than a domed roof. In such structures, the soil warms up faster. Before the emergence of shoots, the soil is tightened with black covering material.
There is nothing supernaturally difficult in growing carrots.Many gardeners, simply by throwing seeds into the garden, then get a relatively good harvest. Nevertheless, if you take care in advance to create optimal or close conditions for the culture, it will more than thank the gardener. There are not so many requirements for carrots. The pre-planting preparation of seeds is especially important - it significantly improves their germination and the quality of future root crops. In addition to the traditional, there are also non-standard methods of cultivation, which are not devoid of certain undoubted advantages. Therefore, it makes sense to experiment at least on small beds to understand which method is best for you.
27 years old, higher education in law, broad outlook and interest in a variety of topics.
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Let's start with the selection of a variety of carrots. I'm sure everyone has their own favorites. I want to consider some varieties.
She loves sunny open spaces. The shade is not for carrots. Grows well after tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, onions, peas, potatoes. Doesn't like to grow after parsley, sorrel.
I do not advise planting carrots very early in the spring, they will lie in the cold ground and can then sprout for a long time. The weather should settle down, preferably + 15 ° С during the day, and the soil warmed up to + 7-8 ° С warm. Usually this is April - early May in the middle lane and in the Urals. Maybe the middle of May - what the weather will be. In the southern regions, sowing dates come earlier.
Carrots love loose, light soil, fertile. For spring sowing, it is better to prepare the ridges in the fall, and loosen it in the spring and that's it. Humus and ash are added to the ground when digging.
Fresh manure must not be used!
Carrots are very sensitive to nitrogen fertilizers and quickly accumulate nitrates. The result is harm, not benefit from such a crop. In addition, root crops grow clumsy, and the smell of manure attracts pests.
Dry seeds should not be planted. You need to soak them in water, or dig them into the ground to swell. There is a whole article about accelerating seed germination in detail. There it is just described in detail how to increase the germination of "slow-thinking seeds" such as carrots, parsley and others.
When the time comes, we make grooves on the ridges, water and sow seeds. It is not necessary to sow too thickly; when thinning, neighboring roots may be damaged. It is good to maintain a distance of one to two cm. For this, the seeds can be glued in advance on thin paper.
Plain toilet paper is ideal here, and the glue should be made of starch. Since we cannot soak such seeds before planting, be sure to water the grooves well. Then we fill the crops with humus and water again.
For the quick emergence of friendly shoots, it is fashionable to cover the garden bed with a covering material, film or old things to retain moisture. After the emergence of seedlings, the film and things are removed, and the covering material can be left to reduce watering, especially in dry spring. Also, radishes or salad are sown in rows of carrots so that the rows are immediately visible.
The main thing in spring is loosening and thinning carrots. There is no need to postpone this procedure. If you wait until the carrots can be eaten, then the whole crop deteriorates. Carrots grow more slowly.
The most important is the carrot fly. She lays eggs in the ground near young carrots in spring, and its larvae gnaw holes in root crops. The new generation lays eggs for the second time in August. The carrots then grow poorly, become rough, tasteless, poorly stored.
You can save the landing. Carry out thinning in the evening and immediately remove the tops from the garden, so as not to attract a carrot fly. You can also do mixed plantings with onions. In doing so, they protect each other.
If you have not taken care of yourself, then you can sprinkle the soil in the aisles with ash and tobacco or ground red pepper. Pests do not like its smell. But it will be expensive for large beds. You can mulch the planting immediately after germination, gradually adding cover as the carrots grow. There are many recipes for plant protection in the article on folk methods of plant protection.
How to grow long, juicy carrots.
I think that you know all the secrets of successful planting and growing carrots in the spring. You can read how to plant carrots before winter. This method gives an early harvest in June!
Not all vegetable crops are grown by seedlings. Carrots do not like transplants, so it is preferable to sow them directly into the ground. You can navigate the sowing time based on folk signs, on the weather conditions of each specific year and your region, on the amount of moisture in the soil. Many plan to sow carrots in the 2020 lunar calendar.
Even in ancient times, people noticed that different lunar phases affect the growth and development of plants in different ways. Considering them, you can achieve a better harvest.
It is difficult to overestimate the health benefits of carrots. It contains a large amount of vitamins, carbohydrates, proteins and minerals necessary for human health. Carrots are widely used in cooking and are suitable for consumption both raw and processed. This bright juicy root vegetable is also used in folk medicine. There is hardly a single site where carrots are not grown.
You can sow carrots both in spring and before winter. It should be borne in mind that carrots sown in autumn or spring at an early date will be poorly stored, so it is better to use it immediately for food. This also applies to early maturing varieties. For winter storage, late ripening carrots are better suited.
When sowing carrots before winter, it is better to lay out the seeds thicker, taking into account the fact that not all will sprout. It is better to thin out the seedlings in the spring than to see half-empty beds.
Yulia Minyaeva tells about how to plant spring garlic in the ground in spring in this video.
In principle, I agree with her in almost everything, only I try not to delay the landing for the reasons that I indicated above.
And so, a good video: the germination of cloves before planting and the furrows is clearly shown by Julia by eye, without problems with stretched threads or with crawling with a board in the beds. It appeals to me. I recommend that you familiarize yourself with:
This is how the whole process looks like. Everything is simple enough.
I have never used tank mixes in my practice before. But gardeners always have to learn and it's time to study the topic - tank mixtures for processing the garden and vegetable garden, how to cook them, what can be mixed and how to apply. The experience of other gardeners and my experience shows that processing the garden with tank mixes save time and energy. Not …